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Expats should check the government website frequently to see if they have any – it's illegal to leave the country with unpaid fines.Cars in Saudi Arabia drive on the right-hand side of the road.Most people get around the Kingdom in their own vehicles or by taxi.But women aren't allowed to drive, so they rely on their husbands, personal drivers or taxis.

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Most of the shopkeepers pull colored tarps over their tables and walk to a nearby mosque, but a few stay, keen to make a sale. The mutawa moves on without ordering the foreign women to cover their hair, as many religious police are known to do.

Yet for all its wealth, it is not a happy place to be.

"If people aren't smiling, at least it means they are thinking," quipped one Saudi, who wouldn't give his name.

It's wise to consult the daily newspaper for prayer times so you know when not to visit Harley-Davidson's branch in Riyadh.

Otherwise, you'll wait outside until prayers end and the store reopens.

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